Road Canyon, Cedar Mesa, Utah

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When driving in Utah, one has to be on the lookout for cows. They can be anywhere. Fences are used to separate herds from each other and to confine herds to particular areas, but the roads, be they dirt tracks or paved state highways, are considered part of the grazing land. So when we went looking for Road Canyon to hike to an Indian ruin, we had to be careful of all the cows and calves along the way. And we had to open a fence gate of pine branches and barbed wire that was meant to control the cattle’s grazing area.

OpenRange1020036Calves1010980Gate1010975Then another mile down the road we found the trailhead in a pinon pine forest area.

CanyonRim1010971AlongTrail1080340The reward at the end of our hike was a very nice ruin of four rooms plus a storage cist. It was perched high on a ledge in the canyon wall. Hand prints were clearly visible in the mortar that the Indians pressed between the adobe bricks and the windows had a piece of wood spanning the top. No one knows for sure, but the consensus estimate of the age of this ruin is about 900 years.

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The next day we hiked a couple of miles in Mule Canyon and found the House on Fire ruin that has been photographed many times by many photographers. The natural lighting combine with the color and texture of the rocks to simulate a conflagration. It was a nice hike and fairly easy climb up the canyon wall to the ledge where the Indians had built their dwellings.

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Willow Gulch hike to Broken Bow Arch

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In the GSENM (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument) and many other parts of the southwest, hikes often start by finding a particular canyon and hiking from the rim down to the bottom of the canyon. These expeditions then end with a slog back up the side of the canyon to the rim. This is opposite to my experiences in New England where hikes almost always began with an ascent and ended with a relatively easy ramble back down to the parking lot.

The hike to Broken Bow Arch, near the end of Hole-in-the-Rock Road, is such a hike. The Bureau of Land Management minimalist approach with no trail signs had us tramping through the desert looking for Mortar Board Rock to locate the head of the canyon where the walls would provide the most gradual entry into Willow Gulch. Sheer cliffs of hundreds of feet of sandstone would have prevented our entry any further down the canyon.

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We found the rock and the gulch and hiked over alternating patches of slickrock and sandy desert landscape to get to the floor. This was a dry wash consisting almost entirely of sand and boulders and smaller rocks; the wash would only have water flowing down it a few times a year. We hiked down the wash, gradually losing elevation and taking care to note which way we would have to return as we encountered forks in the wash. Although there were no official trail signs, there were footprints left by previous hikers and occasionally a cairn to mark someone’s recommended route. Both clues could lead us astray, of course, and we were constantly aware that only we were responsible for our chosen route and its consequences.

The GPS clipped to my belt was leaving a “popcorn trail” for us to follow back to the car at the end of the hike but even that is not foolproof.

GulchScene1080038Descending1080041GulchScenery1080030After about a mile the dry gulch bed began showing signs of moisture. Soon, there was a trickle of water that we followed downstream to our destination. The source of the water was old snow melt, some several years old, that seeped down into the sandstone over the years and then dripped out during our hike. Note the seeps on the right side of the next picture. Also note how much lush vegetation was supported by this seepage.

MeltSeeping1080055After about another mile when the trickle had turned into a creek big enough to support thousands of pollywogs and some schools of fish about the size of a short cigar, we rounded a bend and found our destination, Broken Bow Arch.

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BrokenBow1080059BrokenBowArch1080062It was a wonderful hike with an eye-popping arch for a reward after some taxing walking through sand, stone, and even occasionally water. If your truck can stand the washboard sections of Hole-in-the-Rock Road and you’re up to a moderate hike of about 5 miles, I highly recommend following Willow Gulch down to Broken Bow Arch.

Lower Calf Creek Falls

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A very popular hike that is half way between Escalante and Boulder, Utah, follows Calf Creek for a couple of miles up a canyon to Lower Calf Creek Falls. The trail is well marked and well worn and the BLM folks administering the area did a great job with a trail guide that describes various natural features, referenced to numbered stakes. We began our hike early, about 8:30 but since we took our time at each learning opportunity, we were passed by several other parties before reaching the falls.

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The Utah Slots

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We spent 5 days at Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the Bureau of Land Management’s first national monument which was founded in 1996. It encompasses 1.9 million acres of high, remote plateaus, cliffs and gulches more or less in the middle of southern Utah. This territory was the last place in the continental USA to be mapped and is still pretty wild, undeveloped and almost totally lacking in resources. We hiked to a spectacular waterfall, an arch to make Arches National Park jealous, and 3 slot canyons that are on one recently published “top ten” list.

The slots were great. They are very narrow across the top, often three feet or less, and quite deep with walls of 30 to 60 feet being common. Indirect lighting from above on the richly colored sandstone walls produces beautiful colors. Years of episodic flash-flooding with walls of water, rocks, mud and tree limbs, have sculpted fantastic shapes in the canyon walls. We started with Dry Fork Gulch.DryFork1010760

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And then we moved on to Peek-A-Boo Gulch, my first experience with a hanging canyon. The oval entrance was 12 feet higher than the sandy wash below and it was a bit of a struggle to get to the entrance with only a few widely-spaced, well-worn foot holds. But Jigs and Jafcy made it to the entrance while the ladies waited below.

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The third slot we explored was Spooky Gulch. After a conventional ground-level entrance, Spooky quickly narrowed to the point that we had to remove our hydration packs just to wriggle past another narrow spot. In fact, I had to abandon the exploration while Paul and Sue continued a slender brother-sister quest further up the very constricted canyon.

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Exploring the slots was wonderful fun that completely justified the somewhat arduous trek down and later, back up, several hundred vertical feet of slickrock.

Stay tuned for Lower Calf Creek Falls and Broken Bow arch hike reports.

Bryce Canyon – Hiking with the Hoodoos

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Hoodoos are pillars of sandstone of various shades of red, yellow and white. They can be found in various places where erosion and weathering have done their magic with layers of sandstone but Bryce Canyon in Utah has the largest and most beautiful collection of them that I have ever seen. There the Paria River has been carving the edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau for eons, etching away the cliffs and leaving soft sandstone fins that erode into magical shapes. We call them pinnacles, spires and hoodoos but the Paiutes who lived here long before any Europeans arrived called them the “Legend People” whom Coyote had turned into stone.

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The national park at Bryce Canyon today provides unique hiking opportunities from the rim down into the canyon, winding through the hoodoos. Hikes start at an elevation of 8,000 to 9,000 feet, depending on where along the rim one starts. The trip down to the canyon floor is deceptively easy but the return trip can be a challenge for anyone not acclimated to high elevations. Whether descending or climbing back out, there were photo ops galore with fantastic views of hoodoos at every turn.

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Chaco Culture National Historical Park

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[Guest writer and photographer Susan Caron contributed this item.]

There have been many times on this trip when I have felt like I was in a sacred place, but never more so than our visit to Chaco Culture National Historic Park. It was an amazing experience. It took us back over 1000 years to a time and place where the Puebloan people built huge, complex, buildings in a place with very few resources. They built massive great houses using blocks of sandstone, mud for mortar, and trees for crossbeams. There are no big trees in the area so how they brought them in is one of the mysteries surrounding their architecture. The whole canyon area was dotted with these great houses that contained many separate family units, storage units, and large circular rooms called kivas which were used for ceremonial gatherings. The number of rooms in a great house varied. We went on a ranger led tour through the ruins of Pueblo Bonito, the largest structure in their system of great houses. It was 4 stories high in some places with over 600 rooms used for living or storing grain etc and 40 kivas for ceremonies.bonito2P1040384

bonito1P1040387The most amazing thing was the planning that went into every structure. Construction of these great houses took decades and sometimes generations. There was a plan and rooms were not just added as an afterthought.  This shows a very highly structured society with a common specific purpose and this was from the 800’s to the mid 1100’s. These were very intelligent people. The walls were straight, with 90 degree corners. They understood how to build 3 and 4 story buildings etc. They built and maintained a road system.bonitosidewallP1040393

Chaco was the center for many Indian clans including the Hopi, Zuni, and others. It was a coming together or gathering place for religious ceremonies, the sharing of ceremonial traditions and a place of knowledge and trade. Chaco’s role as a regional center changed around 1200 and many of the tribes started migrating to other areas in the southwest. But for over 300 years these people lived here in a beautiful place with their sacred mountains and mesas.ChRoad2Chaco1040379

This was not an easy place to visit (15 miles on a dirt and washboard road) but if you are interested in American Indian history and want to go back in time to appreciate the skill and knowledge of a different culture, this is a must see. It was so much more than a visit to some ruins. As we walked through Pueblo Bonito and hiked their hills to some of their other great houses you could almost feel the presence of the people and be awed at their accomplishments.

 

The Nautilus

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There’s a rock formation not far from Cottonwood Canyon Rd. that the BLM would rather we not know about. Apparently it is quite fragile, so BLM tries not to attract any attention to it. But we found the Nautilus anyway, without the benefit of signs or maps or other official help. It is a very large sandstone rock which has been eroded to form a chamber similar to a nautilus shell.

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Yellow Rock, Cottonwood Canyon, Utah

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This delightful hike is relatively unknown even though it does appear in some guide books. It is 10 miles away from paved Utah Rt. 89 on a BLM-maintained dirt road, Cottonwood Canyon Rd. It doesn’t have its own trailhead and there’s no sign for it. Hikers park at Hackberry Canyon and then hike down the Paria River looking for an opening in the rocks on the west side. From there the hike has three distinct phases.

First is a scramble up crumbling sandstone and gravel where “4-wheel drive” is a technique often used. It is dirty and taxing business but the reward is to achieve a high-desert passage with some deep sand, lots of cactus and other vegetation such as small, twisted pinyon pines. We were lucky enough to see many wildflowers in bloom on this section.

Then there is the transition onto the rock itself with its fascinating colors and patterns. There’s not really any trail, although some earlier visitors have marked their suggestions with small cairns. Basically, it’s get to the top however you can. We zig-zagged left and right to reduce the steepness that we had to tackle, each of us taking a slightly different route. But we all got to the top with its wonderfull views.

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Bisti Badlands

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The Bisti Badlands in northwest New Mexico are a little difficult to get to. First, you have to drive a few miles on two different unpaved Indian roads, and then you have to hike about  two miles out into the desert.There were no trails, no signs, no tracks to follow. We navigated by heading for two red buttes for the first 3/4 of a mile, then towards two black ones. And I had the lat/long that we wanted to reach in my pocket GPS.

We used lots of sunscreen and drank lots of water from our Camel packs. My three-liter pack was just about empty when we finished the hike.

The rewards were stunning! Rocks and hills and petrified logs in shapes and colors that boggle the mind. Seemingly endless fields of them.

Here are some samples; click them for enlargements.

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Back on the Grid

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Just a quick post to let everyone know that we’ve re-joined civilization. After crossing the Continental Divide near Gallup, New Mexico, we spent three days in Chaco Canyon with no electricity or water other than our own resources that we took in with us. Here’s our rig at the divide and our 7 am coffee making in the canyon using 100-watt solar panels with built-in 3-stage battery charger, 12-volt batteries, 800 watt inverter and a conventional drip coffee maker. Good coffee on a 29-degree morning!

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We’re now in Bloomfield, NM, not far from four corners. We seem to have pretty good coverage from Verizon so I hope to post more pictures from here over the next day or two.

Cochiti Lake, New Mexico

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We cimbed up into New Mexico on I-40, to an elevation that’s been averaging around 5500 feet as we advance across the state. Our first overnight stop was Cochiti Lake, not far from Santa Fe, where we had two sites in a USACE campground perched high above the lake. The sites were paved and served with electrical and water hook-ups and had the nicest ramadas we’ve encountered yet.

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There was a very substantial initial drop behind our site and then a fairly steep descent into the lake so we paid extra attention to chocking our wheels. Then we had time for phone calls, some socializing and planning our next day’s activity, a hike into Kasha-Katuwe to explore their slot canyon and fantastical rock formations. But that report will have to wait several days while we’re off the grid in Chaco Canyon with no electricity or Internet access.Chocks1070377

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Palo Duro Canyon State Park, Texas

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Our final stop in Texas as we worked our way west was just south of Amarillo: Palo Duro Canyon State Park. It was a wonderful place with beautiful electric and water hook-up campsites nestled into the dramatic canyon scenery.

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Our visit at Palo Duro was shortened to two days from the planned three because we had stayed an extra day in Terrell, near Dallas, waiting for very windy and stormy weather to subside. But that gave us enough time for some hiking along beautiful trails winding along creeks and hillsides.

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Wishing we could have stayed longer to explore more of this exceptional state park, we tackled the 10% grade switch-backed road back up to the world of interstates and truck stops.

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The Journey Begins

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We left Punta Gorda at 7:00 am on Sunday, 28 April, as scheduled and had an uneventful journey for the first several hours. Then as we approached Ocala, FL, Paul and Sue had a blowout on their trailer. Sue was driving and she skillfully steered the rig onto the shoulder of the busy interstate where Paul called his insurance company which dispatched a road service truck. We donned high-visibility shirts, deployed orange cones, and tried to get the traffic whizzing by to give us a little leeway. Unless you’ve actually seen it up close, you have no idea how an ultra-light trailer rocks and rolls when an 18-wheeler zooms by. Here are three pictures by Sue Swanson and one by Jafcy:

Blow out on I-75

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About four hours later, we resumed our trip and arrived just before dark at a lovely U. S. Army Corps of Engineers campground on Lake Seminole, GA. A ten o’clock lasagna dinner never tasted so good. Here’s a view of our waterfront camp site. The Swansons were in the next site down the shore.4-28-833EastbankP1010389