In the GSENM (Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument) and many other parts of the southwest, hikes often start by finding a particular canyon and hiking from the rim down to the bottom of the canyon. These expeditions then end with a slog back up the side of the canyon to the rim. This is opposite to my experiences in New England where hikes almost always began with an ascent and ended with a relatively easy ramble back down to the parking lot.
The hike to Broken Bow Arch, near the end of Hole-in-the-Rock Road, is such a hike. The Bureau of Land Management minimalist approach with no trail signs had us tramping through the desert looking for Mortar Board Rock to locate the head of the canyon where the walls would provide the most gradual entry into Willow Gulch. Sheer cliffs of hundreds of feet of sandstone would have prevented our entry any further down the canyon.



We found the rock and the gulch and hiked over alternating patches of slickrock and sandy desert landscape to get to the floor. This was a dry wash consisting almost entirely of sand and boulders and smaller rocks; the wash would only have water flowing down it a few times a year. We hiked down the wash, gradually losing elevation and taking care to note which way we would have to return as we encountered forks in the wash. Although there were no official trail signs, there were footprints left by previous hikers and occasionally a cairn to mark someone’s recommended route. Both clues could lead us astray, of course, and we were constantly aware that only we were responsible for our chosen route and its consequences.
The GPS clipped to my belt was leaving a “popcorn trail” for us to follow back to the car at the end of the hike but even that is not foolproof.


After about a mile the dry gulch bed began showing signs of moisture. Soon, there was a trickle of water that we followed downstream to our destination. The source of the water was old snow melt, some several years old, that seeped down into the sandstone over the years and then dripped out during our hike. Note the seeps on the right side of the next picture. Also note how much lush vegetation was supported by this seepage.
After about another mile when the trickle had turned into a creek big enough to support thousands of pollywogs and some schools of fish about the size of a short cigar, we rounded a bend and found our destination, Broken Bow Arch.


It was a wonderful hike with an eye-popping arch for a reward after some taxing walking through sand, stone, and even occasionally water. If your truck can stand the washboard sections of Hole-in-the-Rock Road and you’re up to a moderate hike of about 5 miles, I highly recommend following Willow Gulch down to Broken Bow Arch.